Taking care of payments while you travel just got easier with the introduction of a currency card from one of the leading currency exchange providors.

Currencies Direct offer a multi-currency debit card that allows you to pay in pounds sterling, US Dollars, Euros and Australian dollars, direct from your currency wallet.

The card is currently available for customers based in the UK, France, Spain and Portugal, with more countries to be added soon.

Benefits of multi-currency card

There are no monthly card fees. No upfront fees. No recurring fees.

You can use your Currencies Direct multi-currency card in over 200 countries – anywhere Mastercard® is accepted.

You can withdraw money from ATMs, all at Currencies Direct’s competitive exchange rate, not the usual ATM rate (see a comparison to bank rates on their site, it’s incredible the savings you can make on your currency transactions).

And with instant notifications in the Currencies Direct app, you can track their spending abroad and stay in control with features like the ability to freeze/unfreeze your card.

24/7 customer support (award winning customer support at that).

If you have Apple Pay, you can use your Currencies Direct card from you iPhone or Apple Watch.

How to get your multi-currency card

You can register in minutes through our app – available in the App Store or Google Play

Currencies Direct have been helping people save time and money on their currency transfers since 1996 with excellent exchange rates, no transfer fees and exceptional customer service.

You can find out more about the multi-currency card here: currenciesdirect.com

Currencies Direct are the winners of the 2023 Best Business FX Provider award (Business Moneyfacts), and Best Currency Broker award (Good Money Guide). They are authorised by the FCA as an Electronic Money Institution (EMI). And have a level 1 credit rating with Dun & Bradstreet (that’s the highest you can get).

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Take a memorably mouth-watering and captivating cultural and culinary tour of picture-perfect Provence and explore some of the most beautiful areas of France, famous for their food produce and wine. You will be based in the enchanting town of St-Rémy-de-Provence in the heart of Provence. And you’ll make memories to cherish forever.

Like a house party

This is a small group tour with no more than 6 guests and though you may join as strangers, you’ll depart as friends. You’ll share the most amazing cultural and culinary experiences discover the real Provence that’s sure to steal a little of your heart.

Half the pleasure of eating is preparing new dishes and learning how to use local ingredients. And on this tour, you’ll be visiting the enchanting market of Eygalieres, a few minutes from lovely St-Rémy-de-Provence. It’s a sleepy little village with fountains tinkling and ancient cobbled streets but on market day the Provencal market sees postcard pretty Eygalieres burst into life, and you’ll be there with a chef to buy fresh local ingredients. The you’ll have a hands-on cooking class and prepare a multi-course lunch, paired with delicious local wines.

You’ll also visit the workshops of artisan food producers, do vineyard visits – and tastings, and shop, cook and dine with a chef in her private home. And you’ll dine in gourmet restaurants, off the beaten track, family run restaurants, the eateries that most visitors never discover – the places that the locals love best.

Combined with the fabulous food and fantastic wine, you’ll also explore the culture and history of Provence with visits to historic cities and ancient villages. And, the icing on the cake, the June tours will include lavender field visits, the purple blooms will just be starting their journey to purple stardom.

You’ll be staying in one location, in  Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the village’s historical center. No unpacking and packing, no moving about settling into different hotels, just one charming, inviting, and welcoming home from home where you’ll get a feel for the rhythm of life in Provence.

Other highlights of the trip

You’ll be transported to the best of Provence. It’s not a huge area and you can see a lot during your tour, and still have plenty of time to relax and go shopping. The itinerary takes in the most iconic sites, the historical wonders and gorgeous villages, here are just some of the highlights:

• Monumental Palace of the Popes in Avignon, an architectural wonder, and a UNESCO heritage site. Plus gourmet walking tour.
• Roman ruins and the charming medieval town of Vaison-la Romaine.
• The honey-hued Abbaye de Senanque where the resident monks grow lavender and make honey.
• Wander the winding streets of the castle topped perched town of gorgeous Gordes, the ochre town of Roussillon, and Instagram-worthy Lacoste.
• Truffle hunting and tasting – with Champagne
• Elegant Aix-en-Provence with its elegant streets, historic districts and walk in the footsteps of Cezanne.
• Visit the Roman ruins in Arles and Glanum
• Wine tasting at world famous Chateaneuf du Pape at three fine wine vineyards including an elegant lunch.
• Les Baux-de-Provence and the incredible art and light show at Carrières de Lumières

An unforgettable cultural and culinary tour of France

Goût et Voyage was founded by French-born Martine Bertin-Peterson to bring together her lifetime passions of travel, cooking and culture. Now living in the US, Martine serves as the escort for all Goût et Voyage culinary travel adventures, sharing her little black book of secret places and the very best restaurants so that you get to know Provence like a local and eat like a Lord.

For full tour details, and to grab your spot (no single supplement) head to: goutetvoyage.com

The post A Captivating Cultural and Culinary Tour of Provence appeared first on The Good Life France.

The south of France has long attracted artists and visitors who fall in love with the incredible light, the charm of the locals and their singing accents, the culture and history of this picturesque part of southern France, fields of fragrant lavender and glorious countryside, authentic and rustic seaside villages. We look at some of the prettiest places in southern France.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

‘When I see Villefranche, I see my youth again. Pray Heaven it may never change’… French poet Jean Cocteau on Villefranche-sur-Mer

The 700-year-old traditional fishing village (top photo) is home to around 5000 inhabitants but welcomes about a million tourists every year (thanks to the large cruise ships which drop anchor just at the entrance of the bay). Nevertheless, the village has managed to retain its authentic and charming nature, winding medieval streets and ochre, pink and yellow houses topped with orange tiled roofs. From the hills, those who climb have a splendid view of Cap-Ferrat, and from some spots even the Cap de Nice.

Just as Picasso, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Henry Ford discovered, it is the perfect place to have a drink at the end of a beautiful day, while you soak up the view of the stunning sunsets.

Antibes

Antibes is one of those places that you stumble upon and realise that you’ve found a sun-drenched French corner of paradise. Of course, others have found this too, Picasso, Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway all fell in love with its charms. They would probably recognise its famous sites today, almost a hundred years after they partied here in the roaring twenties. Take a dip in the sea. Wander the old district where the scent of orange blossom, lavender and jasmine fills the air. Narrow winding roads with ornamental cobbles that lead you past tall old houses dripping with bright pink bougainvillea. It is a true treasure of the French Riviera.

Read more about Antibes

Nice

Words don’t do justice to the charms of Nice. You have to see the palm trees gently swaying from the light sea breeze under the azure sky and taste the salt in the air. Walk down the chequered paths of Place Masséna and along the narrow wiggly streets of the old town, lined with bright terracotta-coloured building.

Wander the Promenade des Anglais that winds around the Bay of Angels, lapped by the unbelievably turquoise sea, glittering from the rays of the warm sun. Listen to the clanking anchors of yachts in the harbour and explore the Cours Saleya with its daily market and stands selling local Socca and Pissaladière and smell the olive oil, sea salt and smoke waft around you. Nice is a city that assails your senses and fills you with the joy of life.

Uzès

In Uzès, rich Mediterranean skies slowly bake a rocky green landscape and olive trees grasp the leafy fingers of the mulberry trees to provide welcome shade in a medieval town square. It’s a place where pale limestone houses gently glow and where history and ancient architecture walk hand in hand under the watchful eye of three feudal towers and the ancestral home and chateau of the town’s Duke. Be lured into its narrow, medieval streets, rest beneath its heavy canopy of thick leaved plane trees and cool stone arches, and be seduced by its charm that leaves you breathless.

Aix-en-Provence

“When the Good Lord begins to doubt the world, he remembers that he created Provence” – Frederic Mistral

Aix will have you believing that dreams are real – it really is that lovely. The hometown of Paul Cézanne has some of the most glorious architecture of southern France, wander the Cours Mirabeau, shop at the market for homemade jam, exotic spices, sunflowers, organic honeys, juicy fruits, soothing lavender and local arts & crafts – all of this whilst gaping at the pastel-coloured buildings. Aix will steal your heart.

Read more about Aix-en-Provence

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, or as the locals say, Saint-Rémy, is located at the base of very long and jagged limestone deposits. With a bit of imagination, they look like dragon teeth! The town is laid out in a circle with plane tree shaded squares with tinkling fountains and cobbled streets lined with ancient buildings. Just above the town centre is the perfect viewpoint for lovers of Van Gogh’s paintings. Many of his most well-known artworks were created during the time he spent in the asylum at Saint-Rémy. Have you ever noticed the steeple in Starry Night? Remember his series of olive trees and the jagged mountains in the background? The sensory world of Van Gogh surrounds you in this magical spot above Saint-Rémy.

Sault, Vaucluse

There are few more breath-taking sights than fields of lavender in bloom and from the village of Sault, perched atop a rocky outcrop, the views are marvellous. Situated between the mountains of Lure, Luberon and Mont Ventoux – the area is famous for its picture-postcard-pretty lavender fields, forests and plains where goats and sheep wander. Visit on a Wednesday morning for the vibrant market and wander the pretty medieval streets for an eyeful of charm.

Menton

Menton is said to be the warmest town on the French Riviera with around 316 days of sunshine a year! During the time of the Belle Epoque, royals from around Europe flocked to the town and luxury hotels and villas were built in the magical setting. Stroll the steep narrow streets which cascade down to the sea. Sit in shaded squares and watch the world go by, beguiled by this corner of captivating charm.

Words by Janine Marsh; Photos by Marianne Furnes, a photographer from the Netherlands, find her on Instagram at: MyFrenchMap

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Any time is perfect to head to Pas-de-Calais and soak up the region’s rich culture and heritage, its authentic homegrown cuisine, take a stroll on the beach and enjoy the captivating coastal scenery. But in Autumn, this area is especially good for a feel-good break. Relax and be invigorated by the fresh air and the flaming colours of autumn. Indulge in superb gastronomy and enjoy the many cultural and historic treasures.

Historic Cities and Cultural hotspots

Meet the Greeters and discover the secret hotspots only the locals know about. The greeter system operates across the region with volunteer guides showing you around ‘their’ France, sharing snippets of local history to groups of up to six. Completely free. greeters62.com/en/

Arras is the perfect small city to leave the car behind and take a stroll. The two main squares are unique in Europe, lined with columned arcades and 155 houses in sumptuous baroque Flemish style. The cobbled Place des Héros, is dominated by the UNESCO-listed belfry which tops the architecturally glorious town hall. Voted France’s favourite monument in 2015, the 75m high platform is the perfect perch from which to drink in the magnificent views over the town. And say hello to the giants, adored heritage figures of the north of France, who stand guard on the ground floor.

Medieval Montreuil-sur-Mer sits atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne-like countryside of the Seven Valleys – there is no sea despite mention of la mer in the name. Take a wander round the ramparts, visit the 16^th century Citadel which was fortified by Louis XIV’s engineer Vauban, and stroll the cobbled streets and squares, squeeze through the narrow medieval alleyways, admire the ateliers and quirky boutiques, and stop for a mug of steaming hot chocolate in the main square in front of the pretty Italianate theatre. It was in this town in 1837 that Victor Hugo stopped for lunch and was so impressed by his experiences in the town, it inspired him to write Les Misérables.

The Louvre-Lens museum, a branch of the Louvre in Paris has an incredible collection of artworks from across the history of humanity that are shown in an astoundingly beautiful modern building. There’s plenty to do around the Louvre-Lens too!

Bring history lessons to life

Indelibly marked by two world wars, there are many major remembrance sites in Pas-de-Calais and many museums and monuments pay homage. 139 cemeteries and memorial sites on the former Western Front of World War One have been listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as at 20 September 2023: 96 in France of which 14 are in Pas-de-Calais, 43 in Belgium – 16 in Wallonia, 27 in Flanders. visitpasdecalais.com/ww1-western-front-listed-to-unesco

In Arras, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Experience in Beaurains offers a fascinating glimpse into the organisation’s painstaking work maintaining Commonwealth cemeteries, monuments, and memorials around the world. And the nearby Wellington Tunnels are an immersive memorial to the Battle of Arras, a step back in time to the First World War.

La Coupole near Saint-Omer, a 55,000-tonne concrete dome with 18 feet thick walls, is where Hitler had a secret V2 rocket base built. Today it is a fascinating and haunting historical and scientific museum, and home to the most advanced planetarium in the world. With a unique 15m wide screen with 10K resolution, watch incredible 3D films from interactive seats.

In the port towns of Calais and all around the Opal coast you’ll find monuments, memorials and museums dedicated to the two world wars and offering a fascinating window to the past. Don’t miss the Atlantic Wall Museum in Audinghen, a German World War II fortress with its eerily undisturbed relics from uniforms to cutlery and cups. Outside is an incredibly well-preserved and rare railway gun.

Climb Napoleon’ Column in Wimille on the outskirts of Boulogne-sur-Mer. Here, in 1804 the great general and Emperor of France mustered his forces and had 2000 ships built, in sight of England. Though the planned invasion never took place, Napoleon began the tradition of the Legion d’Honneur medals, and the moment is marked by this immense column. Climb 263 steps for eye-popping views over the English Channel.

Azincourt 1415 Museum takes you further back in time and tells the tumultuous tale of one of history’s most famous battles: Agincourt. Brush up on the history of this monumental moment in time, where the battle was over in just hours, making the British victors and King Henry V legends for the rest of time.

Meanwhile you can get a feel for how a Lord lived in the 14th century at the wonderfully preserved fortified Chateau d’Olhain in Fresnicourt-le-Dolmen

Beach life

The Opal Coast stretches for 75 miles and takes in golden sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, charming bays, ancient castles, seaside resorts, and authentic little fishing villages. Discover the Belle Epoque charms of Wimereux, the authentic charms of Audresselles and the historic castle and centre of Entente Cordiale in Hardelot. Enjoy a gentle walk or a bracing hike – along the cliff tops at Audinghen, new walkways take you safely across the cliff tops, protecting the environment and offering jaw-dropping views over the English Channel and the White Cliffs of Dover which are easy to see on a clear day. All that fresh air is going to build up an appetite – and you’re in luck because this area offers outstanding gastronomy.

Authentic gastronomy

You’ll find a huge range of restaurants in Pas-de-Calais from Michelin-starred to estaminets, Flemish style inns, and friteries where you can buy chips and sausages in a baguette, a favourite with the locals and the perfect food to sit on the beach and watch the views. Fish stars on many menus, Boulogne-sur-Mer being France’s biggest fishing port, and local dishes that are unique to this area that will definitely tickle your taste buds. Le Welsh – a cheesy concoction that is perfect for breezy days. Carbonnade Flammande, beef cooked in beer with gingerbread is absolutely delicious, ideal autumn comfort food. And how about beer tart (it tastes like treacle tart!), and sugar tart? They have a sweet tooth here in this part of France where sugar beet is a main crop, which is why you’ll find in Pas-de-Calais some of the very best patisseries in all of France.

Autumn in Pas-de-Calais is surprising – and delicious!

Find out more fabulous things to do in the Pas-de-Calais at: visitpasdecalais.com

Want more France?

Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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CroisiEurope has launched a selection of brand new fly/cruise packages taking in the enchanting world of the Alsace Christmas markets. Visit Strasbourg, AKA the capital of Christmas. Tour postcard-pretty villages where centuries-old traditions come alive amidst the picturesque Rhine and Alsace canals. And experience the magic of Christmas market cruises of Alsace – at a price that is seriously tempting and includes flights from the UK to Strasbourg or Basel.

Strasbourg Christmas markets & fairy tale pretty villages of Alsace cruises

Four-day: Christmas Markets in Alsace cruise round trip from Strasbourg. Visit the famous Strasbourg Christmas markets and illuminations, the famous Alsatian Wine Route and its picturesque villages. You’ll also get to tour the beautifully decorated streets of captivating Colmar.

Departures between 29th November and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £749 per person.

Four-day: A Bountiful Christmas in Alsace & The Black Forest cruise. A round trip from Strasbourg that takes in the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations and the Christmas Market in Freiburg – one of the most beautiful in Germany. You’ll visit the Eco Museum of Alsace to learn how Alsatians celebrated Christmas in the past. And you’ll visit the beautifully-decorated streets of Colmar.

Departures between 4th and 17th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £895 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. Starting and ending in Strasbourg the trip includes excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries, you can almost smell the aroma of spicy gingerbread just thinking about it! You’ll visit Christmas Markets in Eguisheim, voted favourite village of the French for its stunning pickled-in-the-past beauty. And you’ll visit the lovely village of Obernai and Christmassy Strasbourg. Plus you’ll be taken to the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg – the oldest wine store in France!

Departures on 7th and 11th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £959 per person.

Four-day: Christmas in Alsace and take in as Show at the Royal Palace. This roundtrip cruise from Strasbourg includes the famous Strasbourg markets and illuminations. You’ll take a tour of the traditional Potter Villages in Soufflenheim and Betschdorf – perfect for unique Christmas gifts. And this cruise also includes an incredible musical performance at the famous Royal Palace Music Hall in Kirrwiller.

Departures between 2nd and 20th December 2023 with fly from UK/cruise prices from £795 per person.

Four-day: Alsatian Christmas Traditions & Navigation Through the Heart of Strasbourg. This hotel barge cruise round trip from Strasbourg follows the Alsatian Wine Route and visits the festive Alsatian capital and surrounding villages. Highlights include excursions to delicious Alsatian Christmas bakeries. It also includes the Christmas Markets in the lovely billages of Eguisheim and Obernai as well as Strasbourg. You’ll also visit the secret wine cellars in the Hospices de Strasbourg.

Departures on 7th, 11th and 15th December 2023 on the 22-guest MS Madeleine with fly from UK/cruise prices from £755 per person.

All prices include return flights from London Gatwick to either Strasbourg or Basel. Also included are private overseas transfers. The cruises include all meals, some excursions, port fees and repatriation insurance. You can find all the Christmas market, Christmas and New Year cruises here: croisieurope.co.uk/christmascruises

For reservations and further information call CroisiEurope on 01756 691269 or visit www.croisieurope.co.uk

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Royal dynasties are often complicated, but none more so than the early Plantagenet kings who dominated France and England in the 12^th and 13th centuries. Arranged marriages here. Betrayals and treachery there. This was the soap opera that just kept on giving. Gillian Thornton follows in the footsteps of the Plantagenet English kings through Anjou and Normandy

The Plantagenets in Le Mans, Sarthe

It all began in Le Mans with Geoffrey, Count of Anjou and Maine, who tucked a sprig of broom, or genet, in his hat after hunting, thus earning himself the name of Geoffrey Plantagenet. In 1128, he married Matilda – granddaughter of William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy and King of England – who gave Geoffrey the Duchy of Normandy as her dowry. But it was his son Henry and grandsons Richard and John who really put the family on the political map.

I love discovering the shared history of England and France but especially since my husband discovered a distant Plantagenet connection in his family tree. You don’t need any royal relatives, however, to enjoy visiting heritage sites associated with this colourful cast of characters.

The Angevin heartland

Best place to start any Plantagenet tour is in the historic province of Anjou, today part of Pays de la Loire. Geoffrey was born in Le Mans in 1113, baptised in its soaring Gothic cathedral, and married to Matilda in the Palace of the Counts of Maine, now the city’s Town Hall.

The cathedral itself is a stunner, standing at the heart of the historic quarter or Cité Plantagenet. Wander the cobbled streets today past colourful half-timbered facades and it’s easy to imagine life in the Plantagenet era. Harder though to grasp that the substantial Roman ramparts were already 800 years old when Geoffrey lived here and are largely still standing. www.lemans-tourisme.com

Despite fighting for his wife’s right to the English throne, Geoffrey never gained a crown for himself. But his first son Henry, born in 1133, would become Henry II of England and add vast lands to the family portfolio by marrying Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, former Queen of France from her dissolved marriage to Louis VI.

You can spend hours in Le Mans but do take in the Royal Abbey of Epau just outside the city, to discover the story of Bérengère de Navarre who married Henry II’s son Richard, known as the Lionheart or Coeur de Lion, in 1191. Largely forgotten after Richard’s death in 1199, the widowed Queen of England returned to the family palace in Le Mans before founding Epau Abbey in 1229 as her last resting place.

Today, Epau is both a heritage site and a cultural centre for the department of Sarthe with an extensive permaculture vegetable garden that supplies the abbey café.  Berengère died in 1230 but lives on here through a recumbent stone effigy. The whereabouts of her bones however is still under investigation. www.sarthetourism.com

The Plantagenets at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud

Whilst Richard’s widow rests in royal solitude at Epau, her parents in law are elsewhere. Henry II and his feisty wife Eleanor fell out big time when she sided with sons Richard and John against him over division of the Plantagenet lands. Henry had her imprisoned for 16 years and after his death, Eleanor retired to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud close to Saumur in the Loire Valley. Here she commissioned painted stone effigies not just of herself, but also Henry and her favourite son Richard who both predeceased her.

She certainly had the last laugh, ordering that her own likeness stand higher than the others and be depicted with a book as a blatant symbol of her superior intellect. The figures were moved in times of religious unrest but today stand in splendid isolation beneath the lofty roof timbers of the main abbey church. Completing the quartet is Isabelle of Angoulême, wife of Eleanor’s younger son John. As King John – of Magna Carta fame – he chose Worcester Cathedral in England for his last resting place, but his son Henry III brought Isabelle to the Plantagenet necropolis in 1254.

Fontevraud’s extensive walled complex was converted to a prison under Napoleon, but has been sympathetically transformed into the Regional Arts and Culture Centre for Pays de la Loire. Wander the historic buildings, visit the Museum of Modern Art, and enjoy eclectic outdoor art installations. Best of all, stay overnight at Fontevraud l’Hôtel and you can explore freely after dark and enjoy the spotlit Plantagenets and illuminated buildings in solitude. An unforgettable experience. Advance bookings are strongly recommended for the Michelin-starred restaurant in the hotel cloister. www.fontevraud.fr

From Touraine in the Loire Valley to Normandy

Henry II of England spent much of his time on the road across his vast Plantagenet Empire which stretched from the Scottish Borders down the length of western France to the Pyrenees and across the Auvergne. In 1189 Henry died from an infection at the Château de Chinon which today is part of the Loire Valley’s Touraine region and whilst much of this strategic hilltop fortress is in ruins, the exhibition in the former Plantagenet Hall includes a handy silent film that neatly wraps up the family squabbles. www.forteressechinon.fr

From Chinon, I headed north into Normandy, a region also rich in Plantagenet sites.  Richard the Lionheart spent much of his reign fighting the crusades in the Middle East, but the border with France was a constant worry too. Ruins don’t come much more atmospheric than the Château-Gaillard at Les Andeleys, commissioned by Richard on a rocky promontory high above the Seine east of Rouen. Wear flat, non-slip shoes to climb the uneven path to the inner courtyard for sweeping views over river cliffs and plain. www.nouvelle-normandie-tourisme.com

Richard’s death in 1199 was something of an anti-climax for such a seasoned fighter, the result of an infected arrow wound in south-west France.  But whilst his body was buried at Fontrevraud, his heart lies in Rouen Cathedral, a common practice in the Middle Ages to spread the opportunities for local income from pilgrims. An effigy of the warrior king lies in the spectacular Gothic cathedral, famously painted by Claude Monet more than 30 times. www.visiterouen.com

Avranches

Less obvious but equally interesting for a Plantagenet hunter is Avranches, close to the Normandy coast. Excommunicated by the Pope for instigating the murder of Thomas Becket in Canterbury Cathedral, Henry II met here in 1172 with delegates of the Pope to seek absolution. The crumbling cathedral was demolished in 1794, but the site of the meeting is now a hilltop green space with distant views of Mont St Michel, the place of penance marked by a stone pillar and plaque. Just ask any local for directions to Place Becket. www.normandie-tourisme.fr

King John died in 1216, but the Plantagenet dynasty was to carry on for another 300 years until Richard III died on Bosworth Field in 1485, overthrown by the next dysfunctional dynasty, the Tudors. But none of the Plantagenets who followed John would have the same influence across two countries as those first three kings.

Henry II had built up the empire; Richard fought hard to maintain it; and John – nicknamed Lackland or Jean sans Terre – managed to lose most of the French lands to Philip II of France. But their ambition and animosity have ensured that 900 years later, we are still fascinated by those early Plantagenet monarchs and the sites they left behind – quite some legacy!

By Gillian Thornton, one of the UK’s leading travel writers and a regular writer for The Good Life France Magazine and website.

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Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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This absolutely delicious plaited brioche loaf recipe (also known as braided brioche), by one of France’s most famous bread makers, Eric Kayser of Paris, makes 3 scrumptious brioches.

Preparation time 50 min – resting time 18 h – baking time 25 min

Equipment: 3 loaf pans 25 x 11 cm (10 x 41⁄4 inches)

For the brioche

600 g (41⁄4 cups/1 lb 5 oz) cake (pastry) flour (T45/farine de gruau)
11 g (2 tsp) fine salt
22 g (generous 2 tbsp/3⁄4 oz) fresh yeast, crumbled
85 g (scant 1/3 cup/3 oz) water at 20°C (68°F)
90 g (6 tbsp/31⁄4 oz) full-fat (whole) milk
5 eggs
90 g (scant 1⁄2 cup/31⁄4 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
10 g (2 tsp) dark rum
6 g (1 tsp) orange flower water
6 g (1 tsp) vanilla extract
140 g (scant 2/3 cup/5 oz) butter, softened

For the finishing

1 egg, beaten, for glazing
1 tbsp full-fat (whole) milk
pinch of fine salt

Method

1 The previous day, mix 100 g (3⁄4 cup/ 31⁄2 oz) of the flour with 2 g (1/3 tsp) of the salt in a bowl, using a whisk. In a small bowl, dissolve 2 g (1⁄2 tsp) of the yeast in the water. Mix the dissolved yeast into the flour and salt mixture with a rubber spatula. Transfer the dough to a floured work counter and shape into a non-sticky ball. Put the dough into an airtight container with a lightly greased lid and refrigerate for at least 15 hours.

2 On the day, combine the milk with the eggs, sugar, rum, orange flower water and vanilla extract in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed, then crumble in the remaining yeast and add the rest of the flour and knead on low speed until all ingredients are incorporated. Add the remaining salt while kneading. Incorporate the fermented dough from the previous day and mix on medium speed for 15 minutes until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Gradually add the butter and knead for 15 minutes on high speed, until the dough again comes away from the sides. The dough should be smooth and glossy. Transfer to a lightly floured bowl, cover with cling film (plastic wrap) in direct contact and leave to rise for 30 minutes at room temperature. The dough should only rise slightly. Refrigerate for between 2 hours and overnight.

3 Preheat the oven to 30°C (86°F). On a floured work counter, divide the dough into nine pieces of equal weight (about 145 g/51⁄4 oz each). Roll them into uniform 25–30-cm (10–12-inch) strips (a) (b) (c) (d) (e). Place three strips vertically and seal them together at one end. Then plait (braid) them together (f) (g). Seal the other end and tuck both ends under (h). Repeat the operation to make two more brioches. Transfer the brioches into greased loaf pans and brush them with eggwash made by beating the egg, milk and salt together. Turn off the oven and put the brioches inside to prove (proof) for 1 to 11⁄2 hours.

4 Remove the brioches and preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F). Glaze the brioches again with eggwash and bake for about 25 minutes, keeping an eye on them.

5 Remove the brioches from the oven, then cool on a wire rack.

Extracted from The Bread Book: 60 artisanal bread recipes from one of the world’s greatest bakers – French chef, master baker and best-selling author Éric Kayser. Published by Phaidon Press 2022. Photography © Massimo Pessina

Éric Kayser comes from a long line of French bakers, and is the founder of the award-winning international bakery Maison Kayser.

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Something akin to the Dutch Stroopwaffle, these delicious and delicate biscuits are divine on their own, or double them up with your choice of filling for a decadent treat. The recipe for biscuits dentelle (lace biscuits) is easy and quick, and they make a wonderful gift for those who can’t consume wheat or gluten.

Prep Time: 25 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Yield: 30 biscuits/ 15 double biscuits

Ingredients

½ cup/120g butter
⅔ cup/135g light or dark brown sugar
¾ cup 80g almond flour
¼ tsp salt
1 tbsp/20ml dark corn syrup, golden syrup
1 tsp vanilla extract or essence

Method

Melt the butter, corn/golden syrup, and sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat. When melted, add the salt and almond flour, stirring vigorously to fully combine – use a whisk to ensure no lumps!

Note: if the butter splits from the batter, remove from the heat and continue to whisk – it will re-incorporate as it cools a bit.

Remove from the heat, allow to cool a little before adding the vanilla. Leave to stand for about 10 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 375˚F/190˚C, prepare a suitable baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

Spoon out the batter in single teaspoon portions approx. 3 inches or 10 centimetres apart – less than this and they could stick to each other. Bake for around 5-10 minutes, or until the edges ‌colour and go crisp.

Allow the cookies to sit for 5-10 minutes when baked, then transfer to a cooling wire – do not attempt to move them until they’ve cooled, or they will tear.

Leave until completely cooled, then enjoy – or make biscuit sandwiches with a choice of fillings – you can use flavoured buttercream, thick caramel, chocolate ganache, or even your preferred chocolate-hazelnut spread.

Kit Smyth is a retired chef with a passion for French cuisine. Originally from Australia, Kit is dedicated to exploring both old and new ingredients, techniques and styles, and developing recipes for home cooks, she also teaches these recipes online and in-person. Find out more at her website: TheBiteLine

More biscuit recipes

Spiced cookies

Eiffel Tower biscuits

Jammy lunettes

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Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy is one of France’s most iconic, legendary, and visited landmarks. This little island, in one of the officially most beautiful bays in the world, is a record breaker, a place conceived with the help of an angel with a pointy finger, and home to a building that seems to defy gravity.

It’s a site so wondrous that it has inspired artists, musicians, and writers for centuries from Monet to Marilyn Monroe. Kings, Queens and presidents have walked its streets just as much in awe as any tourist. Its spiritual Gothic beauty has influenced many films including the Lord of the Rings. This “pyramid of the seas” is a miraculous marvel and one of the wonders of the world. Find out about the legends, the history, the world famous omelettes – and more!

Plus in this episode, we answer a listener’s question about Paris – tune in to find out more.

Brit Janine Marsh author of three international best-selling books about life in France and Frenchman Olivier Jauffrit of radio Paris Chanson share everything France and more through this podcast…

Coming up

Tune in for the next episode when we’ll be talking more about France…

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You’re never far from the sea in Brittany in the west of France. Small bays, inlets, rocky outcrops and sandy beaches surround this luscious and beautiful country which has inspired generations of artists. This ancient land boasts menhirs and all sorts of pre-historic remains, their meanings lost in the mists of time.  As with any ancient land imbued with myths and legends, it boasts its own language. Breton (Brezhoneg) is related closely to Cornish and more distantly Welsh.  Joanna Leggett of award-wining estate agents Leggett Immobillier explains why Brittany is a great place to live or have a holiday home…

A potted history of Brittany

Once called Armorica, following the fall of the Roman Empire it was peopled by migrating waves of Britons in the 4th and 5th centuries. They gave this beautiful land the name ‘Little Britain.’ Later the Duchy of Brittany had its embassy in London on Little Britain street! In time it became known simply as Brittany.

Those early Bretons brought with them their own customs, language and knowledge of seafaring. And though the tribes were many, and divided, they had a common enemy – France! Several battles resolved the issue and the French king, Charles the Bald recognised independent Brittany as a Duchy. Brittany governed itself for the next 600 years – it took a marriage for it to become part of France. Anne of Brittany was the last independent ruler. She was married to Charles VIII of France (not willingly) and when he died (childless) in 1498, she married his successor Louis XII, in 1499. They had two daughters and under the terms of their marriage contract when her daughter Claude married Francis of Angoulême – who became Francis I – Brittany was eventually subsumed into greater France in 1532, though the Bretons still maintained some autonomy. It took the French Revolution to finally change this by abolishing feudal privilege.

Brittany has a unique culture

The Breton language is making a resurgence and cultural activities abound throughout the region with all sorts of festivals year-round to celebrate Breton culture. The Festival of Brittany showcases Breton culture with more than 300 events. The black and white striped Breton flag flies proudly at these events and throughout the region.

Brittany has its own delicious gastronomy – galettes (buckwheat pancakes) and Breton desserts. Fleur de sel harvested below the ancient walled town of Guérande is used to flavour everything. Surely Brittany has the best seafood in all France with briny oysters, fleshy lobsters and St Jacques scallops. Local tipples include pommeau and cider, and a mead type apéritif called chouchen, there’s even whisky made from buckwheat!

Where to live in Brittany

Brittany is made up of four quite distinct departments: Côtes-d’Armor, Finistère, Ille-et-Vilaine, and Morbihan. But they all share common traits – access to the coast as well as to the countryside, plus a laid-back lifestyle.

When it comes to property searches in Brittany, the closer you are to the sea means the bigger the budget required. Head inland for captivating countryside and plenty of properties for sale at affordable prices. Breton villages tend to be small, stone houses featuring whitewashed walls, glittering granite and marine blue shutters, are typical of the region. Fishing ports tend to be small and picturesque with white-washed granite houses.

Finistère the furthest west department of Brittany is slightly cooler than Morbihan in the south which is noticeably warmer with lovely warm summers due to its Atlantic microclimate. Ille-et-Villaine is home to Brittany’s capital, Rennes and is more urbanised than the other departments, while Côtes-d’Armor is more rugged.

Off the rocky coastline are many islands. The Golfe de Morbihan is said to have an island for every day of the year. Belle-Île, the largest island in Brittany, boasts its own micro-climate, and property here is much sought-after – and pricey!

Brittany has great transport options – several easy to access ferry ports and airports in St Malo, Brest and Rennes.

Brittany has its own distinctive character – beautiful historic small cities with half-timbered properties, charming small villages and magnificent coastline with numerous sandy beaches, and a great variety of places to live.

Joanna Leggett is marketing director at Leggett Immobilier – you can view their full portfolio of properties for sale in France at www.leggettfrance.com

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Discover more fabulous destinations in France with our free magazine The Good Life France

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All rights reserved. This article may not be published, broadcast, rewritten (including translated) or redistributed without written permission.

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